Sunday, 27 May 2012

Best Exotic Marigold Hotel and Salmon Fishing in the Yemen



Ridiculous titles – excellent very British films;

Two great fun films ... both very, very British!  Cast with some really well known actors and actresses – such fun to see them all working together – I bet they laughed all the way through the takes. 

Then some views of the West Country lanes I passed through on my brief journey to Cornwall, via Somerset and Devon ....


What a great idea taking a group of ageing “beautiful and elderly” retirees, writing a comedy-drama around them and having it set in India ... to a hotel called “Marigold” ... I just cannot get washing up gloves – marigold variety – out of my mind!


These characters still full of dreams, full of life, perhaps not quite so stable on their pins – but spring chickens in their own minds – the strangers meet up in Jaipur ... and their journey of adventure begins.


Hart's Tongue Fern in Cornish Lane
The British character is at work here ... lotharios, cricket fans, antithesis to foreigners – and they’re in India – hidden talents ... the relationship between the Indian personalities and their expectations of life ...


Checkout this great movie – it’s fun, light, thought-provoking too, seductive in nature as India weaves its spell ... the people are intelligent, funny, curious – the stellar cast give us lots of laugh out loud moments.  Just delightful ... it is charming in unexpected ways.



Another cracked title – but the book has the same name – while the words certainly entrap you ... a very typical British romantic comedy-drama built around a very odd premise ... bringing fly fishing to the Yemen.


But anything is possible with some $$$ ... beautiful film sets, British characterisation excellently portrayed once again – British names ... Chetwode-Talbot ... 

...the reserve of the Brits, the pompousness of British politicians and civil servants, handsome Sheikh ... there are twists and surprising ones at that ...


But – oh I do enjoy good old British humour, sense of hope, ridiculousness of situations we get ourselves out of ... a good looking cast (that’s rather good at its craft too!!) ... some excellent locational shots ...


A Linseed Field in full flower
I love that we get to see parts of our country that we might miss otherwise – and highlight countries we might never get to see – perhaps through a gauzy haze of cinematographic delight ... think Slumdog Millionaire ...


Castles – well this is a Scottish baronial house ... Wikipedia gives their locations – I’m pleased to say ... and then using Morocco for the locations set in the Yemen – but in the film there is a Google earth image showing the deep valleys in the Yemeni mountains.

Ardverikie House - also used as the Monarch of the Glen
tv programme base
I don’t usually go to other main stream films, preferring the more subtle ones that tend not to go on general release ... I rely on our film society to bring us a stimulating range of films from around the world, some sub-titled ... some they bring in to satisfy the overseas visitors in the town – particularly the French: so we get quite a few French films ...

Somerset view

I have just had a quick journey to Cornwall in the West Country to celebrate someone’s life after 95 years – she was able to live her life to the full and died peacefully at home in her sleep.  

I spoke to her 9 days before she died ... she didn't like unpacking the shopping, which she was doing and the ants had returned ... normality of life.


May is a wonderful time to travel in England ... this year some plants are ahead after our very early pre-Spring, some are now making a bold start after our cold and wet Easter, finally Spring is morphing into Summer at a fast rate .... leaves have unburgeoned, flowers are mixing up with their woodland settings.

Bluebells and Wood Anemones

The first part of my journey is the ‘fast’ stretch, then I wended my way overland into the Somerset villages to see a good friend, whom I met in South Africa, and catch up after being tied up with my mother.


Not a long stop – but at least we touched sides again ... and her brother lives here in Eastbourne ... so I’ll see her later in the year.   The next morning I set off for The Eden Project where I could have a walk, a pit stop, and a wander ... before the 2.00pm funeral.


Cornish Lane
A tiny Cornish church, a retired Bishop taking the service, connections with Oxford, said Bishop was confirmed by one of my schoolgirl classmate’s father, who at that stage was a vicar in Oxford, but who also went on to become a Bishop.   Small world of connections ...


A very simple tea afterwards at her cottage, down a tiny lane, with ferns, bluebells, primroses, glimpses of the sea through five bar fences, the cool shelter of the bent Cornish trees in the valley ...
Red Campion and Bluebells

We could only walk there – just about inaccessible by car – beautiful cottage with a folly gate, they had just seen and had to buy!, tiny garden, but flanked with their folly leading into a meadow that they were able to garden as a backdrop to the white cottage.


Brilliant sunny day – lots of tea in the garden – sandwiches thickly filled with cucumber, egg and cress, or smoked salmon – followed by scones, jam and Cornish cream ... I ate too much!


Black Head cove, St Austell
Thankfully I shall be able to visit quite often in the future as Jane her niece has inherited ... I shall enjoy that ... since I came back from South Africa my uncle had very bad diabetes, which eventually took his life, after going blind ... while my aunt I was able to briefly visit in recent years ... she did enjoy life and always revelled in the fullness of things (post here).


Well that is the start of 2012 – it is going to be a mammoth year ... so much is happening – and even I may post short and sweet during the next few months?!

Enjoy the films – they’re very British and just plain enjoyable ...

Hilary Melton-Butcher
Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

Wednesday, 23 May 2012

Uppingham-by-the-sea ... Wrap Up!


When I was looking through my mother’s books I came upon this little gem – I had never heard from the family about this episode in the school’s life – so I was entranced to read the book and got hooked.
Snowdonia


I thought it would make a good story for a post ... and in the end I couldn’t easily reduce the 47 pages much more than I have ... I also simplified it and kept to the school or calendar year.  I thought I might be able to make it into two posts ... no such luck, and then each post got longer and longer!


As some of you have noted the descriptions are just wonderful and I admit I have plagiarised them for my posts – because Sir John Henry Skrine wrote this beautiful narrative in 1877 for publication the following year by Macmillan and Co.

Bag of Phrases
I also do not have the erudition that is exemplified by the era, the headmaster and the author, Sir JH Skrine: there are many quotations and references in Greek and Latin to poetry, myth and legend, ancient literature, theatre and the arts ... that I wanted to refer to – hence the plagiarism!


I coaxed myself to extract and draft the posts ... many written using Skrine’s words rather than my own; I broke up his paragraphs and italicised some - the exceedingly descriptive phrases he used, or to render a point that I thought was of particular ‘interest’.

Skrine did not have copy and paste!! And his knowledge must have been prodigious to have all these literary references to hand ... I just hit the link?!

A lot of you have noted ...

Ø Exploration for a suitable site done in 3 days, headmaster visited and signed contract, 14 days later the train and 18 carriages had been hired ...

o   the railways had only started 45 years previously ... yet had spread to most mines and ports ... obviously transport around the British Isles was greatly enhanced.

o   The railway line at Uppingham only opened in 1890 .. so everything had to go by horse and cart to Seaton (about 2 miles away)
Steam locomotive

Ø It could be done, without hassle, 135 years ago: a whole school could be bundled up and trained out – it beggar’s belief what would happen today ...


Ø 8 days later – the school boys themselves poured forth from said trains: how had they been notified ... this is not divulged ...

o   The telegraph was becoming available, but certainly wasn’t ubiquitous
o   Telephones were just being invented

A perforated Penny
Red - letters in four
corners and plate 148,
therefore printed
after 1871
o   The Penny Post had come in 35 years previously (1840) ...
§  Did they use letters, or personal messengers, or send the masters out to explain ...?

o   and how about copying anything ... was it done via a letter copying press (James Watt obtained a licence in 1780s), ... or by Notice using word of mouth ...


Ø there was no electricity – so light would be candles or kerosene (paraffin)  lamps;  electricity was being engineered – but it would be another 30 or 40 years before it was for everyman and could be everywhere

Ø cooking would be done on ranges ... gas stoves were exhibited at The Great Exhibition in London in 1851, but it was only in the 1880s that they started to become commercial.   The ranges would have been stoked by coal from the local coal mine. 


Would they have bought ranges in the first place, and then ordered more as until requirements were satisfied ...

o   The Commissariat featured ... fodder could be found, stocks could be provided – even to feed those extra 400 odd souls ...

Ø The absolute trust that must have been inherent here – the headmaster, the masters and their families, the Trustees (because they authorised these major decisions), the boys themselves ... all getting on with and along with their new environment.

The otter
Ø The paths of communication that darted about the country – to the boys’ families; to Uppingham, and from Oxford – where most of the medical information (typhoid and scarlet fever) and support came from – as well as the Old Boys ... the local network.  I bet they’d turn in their graves for our life today ... the web of communication.

Ø Remember what we’re involved in today – is history tomorrow – perhaps in Wikipedia, though this saga isn’t, but the link to the narrative is shown.
Welsh Music 2011


Ø The shoreline reflecting geographical changes; sagas being retold in poetry – eg Taliesen.

Ø Standards were not allowed to drop – concerts were performed, matches were played, theatre was performed ... the boys were looked after in sickness and in health.

Snowdon Lily

Ø Schoolwork was kept up, new subjects appropriate to an innovative headmaster were introduced – archaeological, welsh music, botanical dissections of new creatures and plants – all new possibilities were explored ...


Ø Relationships were formed between school and its new community of strangers – strangers to public school life, to the English too ...  the relationship continues to this day ...

Sign post at Borth

Ø The wonderful description in the 2nd post between Grumbler and Cheerful ...

Ø Sanitary Tom – what a description for the sanitation navvy!


Ø In places I have pointed you to the appropriate page in the little book ... should you be interested in reading the actual account of that particular experience
Merlins - a painting



Ø I found it interesting Skrine discusses bullying and self-governance ...




Ø Connection with home (Uppingham) being maintained throughout ... via correspondence, parcels and those deliveries of prize stems of roses in a tin, fruit and vegetables ...


Ø They had a fairly rough time ... storms, fevers, losing boys ....


Ø Delicious words delivered fruitfully ... “ruth”, “niggardly”, “eygre”, an annus mirabilis ... valedictions on departure and on their return arrival ...


Let us have light old style
Edward Thring an original thinker and writer, was a well celebrated British educator; he raised the school to a high state of efficiency, and stamped it with the qualities of his own strong personality.  He nearly bankrupted himself during the school’s escape ...


These words in the first post “It was like shaking the alphabet in a bag, and bringing out the letters into words and sentences; such as the sense of absolute confusion turned into intelligent shape” – is definitely the way I felt ... lodging phrases and interesting facets into the grey matter as I read – then hoping a story would emerge, that would engage readers.

This is fromAmazon
it is available in various
formats
The whole may be read courtesy Project Gutenberg ... and then you can pass comment on whether I’ve made a good stab with these recitations ...


I’ve loved your comments – it’s great to be able to write posts and then know that others are enjoying the story line ... I’m so grateful for your support.


The aged book is on its way back to my cousin, as the little narrative appears to belong to my uncle – why we had it I have no idea ... and nor does anyone else I guess.


The home that is Uppingham
Still Uppingham-by-the-Sea has entered another realm of its life in the 21st century – first published in 1878, then transcribed into Project Gutenberg in the 20th century, and now posted here in the 21st century ... the narrative continues to amaze and be entrancing in its telling.

(For interest Uppingham’s population in 1886 was around 2,560 – and now 125 years later it is between 3,800 – 4,000 ....)


Gelert - by Charles Burton Barber
(1845 - 1894)
To Dog Lovers, Welsh Lovers, Myth and Legend Lovers ... here is one last story ... before my tale is completely done ...  it is set in northern Snowdonia, some way north from Borth.  Madeleine from Scribble and Edit mentioned the link in a comment on my recent Dog’s post.


Gelert is the name of a legendary dog gifted by King John of  England (1166 – 1216) to  Llywelyn the Great.  As sad a folk-tale motif as you will find ... The Legend of Gelert, within the history of the village Beddgelert.  Other information can be found under Wikipedia.

Hilary Melton-Butcher
Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

Monday, 21 May 2012

Uppingham-by-the-Sea ... the narrative draws to a conclusion ...


In the year 1877 ... when boys were still alive ...

... before that though the 1876 calendar had to write itself to a close into this little narrative, so onward we go ....
Ford Maddox Brown's Navvy (USA)
depicted "The Work" 1865

Ø September 15th and 16th dawned – the school returned filling old quarters and several additional houses.


The medical officer and the ready pickaxe of “Sanitary Tom” (as the boys called the navvy who was his stout ally), had been at work on sanitation arrangements.


(At Uppingham the same work started on September 14th – the sanitation had finally been called out as the fever’s incubator).


Ø The term opened smilingly .... just five weeks later – a case of scarlet fever occurred, followed by half-a-dozen more, ... their prosperity staggered under the ‘what next’ syndrome ...

-         Would it spread to the village, across the school - could they stay - and many other challenging thoughts ... and what of other infections?

-         They had good scientific advice on the spot, from the medical officer – who was advised out of Oxford, so no time was lost in stamping out the plague ... by ... page 28 describes the plan:

-         War is not made with rose-water, and fever germs can be exterminated, it seems, by nothing less exasperatingly unsavoury than carbolic acid, an agency which was laid on without any ruth.

"A Girl with a Watering Can" -
Pierre-August Renoir 1876

Grumblers were offered the alternative of being smoked with sulphur.  Some complained of sore throats, contracted, they said, from the fumes of the disinfectant, and declared that the remedy, like the vaccination, was only a mitigated form of the disorder.


The landlords of our studies looked on with irresolute wonder, when some of us sprinkled their floors with a potent decoction poured from watering-pots.


Most of them regarded it as a kind of magical rite into which it would not be seemly to inquire.

Probably the best disinfectant applied was the clear strong wind, which ten days after the first case succeeded the previous relaxing weather.
Pebbly Beach at Eastbourne

All windows and doors were ordered wide open for the free passage of the blast; and the boys were directed to bring down their rugs, great-coats, and dressing-gowns, and anything of the kind which might be supposed to harbour mischief, and spread them for purification on the pebbles of the beach.



It was thought the germ was probably caught in the railway – so excursions were discontinued for a time.

Worse would have occurred had not the villagers been ready to assist with the isolation and other necessary matters to curtail this outbreak.


Page 29 discusses the possibility of bullying due to confinement in the winter months ... however the advantage of self-governance prevailed ... old rules had to be relaxed – in general the result was all went well; of course wrong things were done at Borth as elsewhere, but their insignificance for the most part would provoke a smile.


As the term progressed, November set in with its early dark evenings – the school curriculum was rearranged – afternoon school began at sunset, the Debating and other societies met on half-holiday evenings, so the dark hours did not hang heavily, and the expected tedium of an Arctic winter was not experienced.

Aberystwyth
The term closed with a concert given in the Assembly Room at Aberystwith, repeated the next night in the Temperance Hall at popular prices.


The Old Boys returned to play the customary football match against the present school ... and were beaten 2-1; prizes, class-lists, and the Headmaster’s speech closed the day.



No mention was made for their return to Middle England or to the coast of Wales in the year 1877.

Sit down, and hear the last of our sea-sorrow
                             from “The Tempest”

Ø 22nd December, after inspection ... and in the face of Dr Acland’s (an Oxford consultant) report, the Trustees “deeply regret they cannot at present recall the school to Uppingham.”  So they went back to the sea.



The boys with sticks in 1876, were watched by boys named Bevan, in the year 1877 ...   ("ab-Evan" meaning son of Evan - Welsh origin)

The school returned in January ... for what would become the Farewell Term ...

Fewer masters’ families had remained ‘in camp’ ... some had gone to winter quarters at Aberystwith; some had already resettled at Uppingham.


A not so niggardly vegetable plot
Connection with home began to be retightened also by parochial and other common transactions, in which we took our share from a distance ...


... the deserted gardens at Uppingham did not waste their sweetness on the air ... a thin intermittent stream of their products found its way along the nine hours of railway through most of the year: flowers, fruit and vegetables ... were welcome by all, including dwellers in this somewhat austere tract where they did not grow or grew very niggardly.


Further details of “contraband” drew the attention of the London and North-Western Railway Company, whose officials called to account one of our servants for travelling with an excess of personal luggage ... the artless contrabandist, besides his own modest pack, had fourteen several hampers and boxes under his charge!  This was checked.


But there was a Post Office miscreant, who systematically staved in and pounded into such odd shapes the little tin boxes in which our rose-fanciers had their choice blooms sent them by post?  The Post Office disacknowledged, the school remonstrated – the criminal was stopped.


Business matters from home needed to be dealt with ... as parishioners and ratepayers.  Someone who, even bought a freehold of land, had clearly not despaired of their Rutlandshire.



This term’s life, with exceptions, continued much as before ... the round of work and play was much the same; the harriers were out again, football went on as before, till superseded by the “athletics,” ...

Ø On 7th March an athletics match against Shrewsbury School on their ground was held ... a battle drawn.


The difficulties encountered this term were the elements...


Harpies
First off two new boys rambled forth and were missing by tea-time .. search parties were organised north and south ... they were found perched upon a rock up the cliff to escape the rising tide telling stories – unaware in the darkness the tide had ebbed, or to minimise their fears by staying put, thankfully blessed with a mild January night.


This was the sportive prelude of more serious troubles ...

Ø Monday 29th January – a servant was conveying the dinner of his master’s family from the hotel kitchen to Cambrian Terrace.

As he crossed the gusty street between them, the harpies of the storm swept the dinner from the dish, and rolled a prime joint over and over in the dust; a leg of mutton was following, but he caught it dexterously by the knuckle-end as it fell, and rescued so much from the wreck.

Borth - the storm did blow
Did the wind not blow?  For three days the sou’-wester had been heaping up the sea-water against the shores of Cardigan Bay.


People remembered with misgivings that an expected high tide coincided in time with the gale, and shook their heads significantly as they went to bed on that eve.

A storm wave is part of a system of aggression which the sea carries upon these coasts ...

Ø 30th January’s half light gloomed eerily ... the classes emerging from morning prayers, found the street between them and the Terrace threaded by a stream of salt water, which was pouring over the sea-wall ...

Before morning school was over the stream had become a river ...

... those who were well placed saw a memorable sight that morn, as the terrible white rollers came remorselessly in, sheeting the black cliff sides in the distance with columns of spouted foam ...

... then thundering on the low-sea wall, licking up or battening down the stakes of the palisades, and scattering apart and volleying before it the pebbles built in between them, the village street was heaped with the ruins of the barrier over which the waters swept victoriously into the level plain beyond:

          The feet had hardly time to flee
    Before it brake against the knee,
    And all the world was in the sea.

          Those who were looking inland saw how ...

             Along the river’s bed
         A mighty eygre reared its head
         And up the Lery raging sped.

          ... at Borth they escaped lightly, at Ynyslas the tenants fled to their
          upper storey as the tidal race plunged them into twelve feet of
          water;

          ... how it breached the railway beyond, sapping four miles of
          embankment, and sweeping the bodies of a drowned flock of sheep
          far inland to the very foot of the hills;

          Yet they saw enough to make them recall the grim memories of
          Taleisen’s shore ... and wonder if circumstance would be added to
          the legend of the Lost Lowland Hundred.

Pages 33 and 34 describe the ensuing horrors and reparations made by gangs of boys with masters leading, looking like scurrying ants ...

... their rudimentary defences were fortunately not tested, as the wind veered, allowing the water of the bay to return to a degree of normality.

"The Bed" Toulouse Lautrec 1893 -
looks too comfortable for me!
For their exertions they rewarded themselves with a lie-a-bed the next morning in place of early school!

Borth was not too bad, Ynyslas suffered severely, the surrounding countryside too – the school could and did help with a subscription to replace the cottagers’ losses.

They also put their backs into helping with the clear-up – for what had started out as “something not altogether unpleasing to us in the calamaties of our neighbours,” but the “humorous ruth” with which we contemplated the comical incidents of the disaster was exchanged in good time for practical pity.

Railway crossing the Dovey
It was a fortnight before the next train ran, but in the meantime the service was bridged by coach and horses.

There was another privation! – you would only know the football field at Ynyslas was there – from the goal posts rising mournfully through the floods, were a landmark which the boys recognised with rueful eyes in the midst of the drowned and deformed landscape.


Within three weeks the elements caused us alarm.  A heavy gale got up in the evening of February 19th, and roared all night upon the roof of the hotel, tearing up the fluttering tiles in patches, and sending them adrift through the air ...

... yet it was dry ... exceeding cold – but the schoolboy is hungry at all times; what must he be at night when dragged from bed to save his life, and forced to sit up, rather chilled and very empty, for several hours before daybreak?


... the Headmaster appeared with “a Midnight Feast” .. at least biscuits, and what supplies could be requisitioned at the moment, to provision the watch.
Thereafter the weeks rolled smoothly on, unmarked by moving incident, till they gladdened us with the growing light of spring, and brought us within near sight of our home.


Must the truth be told?  We are all of us loyal sons of Uppingham, but not all of us were glad to find our return to the mother-country was at last arriving.

However, alike for those who were impatient and those who were reluctant to attain it, the equal-handed hours brought the end of our exile.

Title page of the first quarto, 1600
On one of last evenings, April 6th, a reading was given in the school-room, “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” with Mendelssohn’s music; no unfit close, we said, to our annus mirabilis.


For, indeed, its incidents had been “such stuff as dreams are made of,” as whimsical if not quite harmless, as if their plot had been directed by the blithe goblin of Shakespeare’s fantasy.


The encore of a second recital was offered to the good people of Borth ... they enjoyed it hugely.


But a more solemn farewell was taken on the morrow full details on page 37, but the whole village came down to the school doors, with banners, choirs singing ... when the cheers for “Uppingham” and our answering cheers for “Borth” had rung out across the sands to seaward ....

... the valediction was heard thus ...:

“We, the inhabitants of Borth, beg to tender our most sincere thanks to Dr Thring, and all the masters and scholars of the celebrated Uppingham School, for the very many generous acts, and kindly feeling exhibited to us during their sojourn here.”


... it was added ... he commented on the discipline which (from the evidence of their conduct when at large) seemed to rule the school; naively but pointed he noted that ...

ü No offence had ever been given;
ü No boy had laughed at the villagers, if they were old and queer-looking or queerly dressed;
ü There had been no disorder, no shabby act, nothing “un-decent” (so he put it in his unpractised English) during the whole twelve months we had spent among them.”

Welsh cottage

Clearly, as on that evening, we shall always see, distinct in the quiet light of the afterglow, the ranks of serious faces, touched and stilled by the surprise of a contagious sympathy, as English boys and Welsh cottagers looked each other in the face, ...


... and felt, if for the space of a few heartbeats only, an outflash of that ancient kinship which binds man and man together more than race and circumstance divide.

Take once again our thanks, kind people of Borth, if our thanks are worth your taking.  You showed us no little kindness in a strange land, and the day is far off when we shall forget the friendly, gentle people whose name is the memorial of a great ill escaped, of much good enjoyed, in the days that are over, and the landmark of who knows what greater good in the days that are to be.

All is over now; April was just a twelfth-night old when the school departed.

Do not let us forget Old “Borth”, the colley dog ... whose attachment to the school and boys is described on page 38 ... he poked his nose into the carriage to take his leave ... a sad and wet farewell for so beloved a school adoption.

The Dovey Estuary
The porpoise is once again close inshore – wallowing like the jolly sea-pig that he is – the wild creatures seem to have grown tamer since there are no stroller to keep them aloof.

Yes, the silence has come down again ... but it is a silence full of voices ... men hear most audibly the tumult of their own brains, so is it with us now.  Action is ended, and memory begins to work.

Borth early 1900s

The little fishing town has returned to its “old solitary nothingness” ... a sleepy sadness descends ... we go our separate ways ... sea-shore returns to Borth village, transposed school returns to Middle England where it rightfully belongs.




Thirteen centuries ago the hero became the guardian of the shore; but the story which ends to-day is, perhaps, as worthy note as any he watched from his hill-side.

The local paper, The Cambrian News, carried the farewell report (see pages 40 and 41) together with the story of the rumour that came to Borth some twelve months ago respecting the advent of Uppingham school ...

... a few old women and nervous people, in the innocence of their hearts, were afraid they would be swamped by an inundation of Goths and Vandals.

Thus the Final Act has come about ... of this small narrative – one final post will reveal the source and highlight some of the changes that have occurred within the intervening 135 years ...


PS I have a funeral to go to in Cornwall - so I'll be back Wednesday.  Someone who lived a long, happy and productive life dying peacefully in her sleep aged 95 - it will be a celebration of a life well-lived.

Hilary Melton-Butcher
Positive Letters Inspirational Stories