Smallhythe over the centuries ... coastline changes, shipyard building ...

 

Here's a very brief history of the rise of royal naval activities from the Anglo-Saxon period to the Medieval era … these depended on where the overseas attacks were happening … north sea areas (Vikings, Angles, Danes etc); Irish Sea areas (Ireland, Isle of Man and Anglesey, Scotland); south coast (Vikings, Danes and Normans) …

Sussex Coastline at Pevensey - c 340 AD
(west from Smallhythe/Tenterden/Rye area)

...from the 9^th century (1000 AD) onwards the English nations developed their naval skills, and we know what happened after 1066 AD … but then it appears that fleet mustering almost ceased to exist, possibly because of William the Conqueror's acumen …

But in the next two hundred years or so … the necessity for trade ensured shipbuilding continued, as did the necessity because of the conflict with the nations of Europe … France, Flanders, Venice, Portugal, the Moors … as and when.

Coastline c 1066 AD

The Hundred Years' War (1337 – 1453) included frequent cross-channel raids … and this was when each king started to develop naval fleets.

Maritime activity has been found at Smallhythe from 1326 … probably wool trade related ... but the fast flowing river, the local oak forests, sloping shores provided all that was needed for early shipbuilding.

Coastline before the storm of 1287
(Smallhythe's harbour is within that large
estuary ... as shown)

It is estimated that the River Rother at Smallhythe in Medieval England, during the 1300s, had a depth of about 6.5 metres (21 feet) at high tide, to 2 metres (6.5 feet) at low tide – enough for the largest vessels of the day.

So the development of a shipyard, today four direct miles inland from the sea, actually probably seven to eight miles by water through the marshes, made such a business possible.

Isle of Oxney - we could see from the house
(the marshes are now all silted up - as
agriculture took over)

Across the marshes and in the Pevensey Levels there are many islets, as you'll see here at Smallhythe – the Isle of Oxney is a relatively large island in the Rother Valley – ferry crossings were essential, before bridges and turnpikes started to appear.

The ferry at Oxney was crucial for the important trading town of Tenterden three miles upstream from Smallhythe, which continued to operate into the mid 1600s.

An illustration from the Anthony Roll (a
written record of ships in the Tudor Navy 
{c1540} named after its creator
Anthony Anthony)

The importance of Smallhythe as a shipbuilding centre was at its zenith in the 1400 - 1500s … with three kings placing work there in this era – Henry V, Henry VII and Henry VIII …

After Henry VIII visited in 1537 he commissioned further smaller vessels to be built for the nascence of 'the royal navy' … but with the ongoing silting up of the river and a major fire in 1515 destroying the settlement, its focus turned to agriculture …

Pevensey Levels - similar landscape to
that around Smallhythe

The coast line along the Sussex and Kent counties (as we know them today) was and is always changing, with the tides and storms … the Great Storm of 1287 hit the south coast with such ferocity that whole areas of coastline were redrawn …

I hope you can get an idea of the shipbuilding that occurred, as too the coastline changes that are shown in the various images …

This booklet gave me a lot of background about the history of Smallhythe, its royal connections to the development of the royal navy, and the coastal changes …

There'll be another one or two posts about my visit out to Smallhythe, but this gives an idea of the area that existed here from Norman times, to as we find it today …

Apologies that first image is blurry ... but I'm sure you can get the gist ... 

Hilary Melton-Butcher

Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

Grayson Perry: A Temple for Everyone exhibition …

 

Sir Grayson Perry, to give him his due, is an English artist known for his ceramic vases, tapestries and cross-dressing, as well as his observations on the contemporary arts scene, and for dissecting British “prejudices, fashions and foibles”.

Julie Cope tapestry

The Julie Cope tapestries were created for 'A House in Essex'.  Julie is a fictional Essex woman.  Two tapestries were completed for a commission for the charity "Living Architecture", they are held by the Crafts Council.

The visual story was created on a computer when working closely with a digital mediator as well as tapestry weavers, translated the work into a 3D woven textile.  Like an impressionist painting, the palette is created by individual stitches of different colours sitting side-by-side then blending in the viewer's vision.

During Covid, he and his wife, Philippa, held a lockdown art club, when he selected and collated art from everyday people, fellow artists and celebrities, based on themes occurring during the pandemic … one advantage of being able to collaborate over zoom …

Ye Olde English Pot

In this exhibition at the Charleston centre in Lewes there were over 30 of Perry's own works exploring stories of the home … from textiles and pots to ceramic tiles and woodcuts …

His most recent works in this exhibition explore themes of national identity.  Ye Olde English Pot is presented in the form of a medieval beer flagon.  Decorated with traditional slipware techniques, it references the polarising effect of the internet debate, while also invoking heraldic iconography.

… he also works in printmaking, drawing, embroidery and other textile work, film and performance … a talented artist …

A Map of Days

'A Temple for Everyone' exhibition ties in with the Bloomsbury artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, who had transformed their home at Charleston Farmhouse, in the 1920/1930s, into a canvas and sanctuary for their ideas …

You won't be able to see the detail in this map portraying 'a fortified town'... but Perry has a longstanding fascination with maps.  Using the language of map making and historic cartographic techniques, Perry plays with the medium and uses it as a container for ideas. We can trace people, dreams, ideas and identity through these works which resemble literal mind maps, displaying ideas and their interconnections with one another in great detail.

… similarly here Perry reimagines society through art, capturing the essence of contemporary life in his work … asking us to consider where we're at in life …

Plague Cat

I think having lived through Covid and having had to adjust to life in these times … we all probably now have different thoughts on our history as it stands …

During Covid he and his wife went through a walk around the deserted streets of London ... passing by Samuel Johnson's house, where the sculpture of his cat 'Hodge' resides.  Cats came to the fore ... here he's used the medium of an Islamic Incense burner ... and added pustules and boils ... to make it more decorative?!

Cocktail Party

I've selected very few of my photos ... with annotations as mostly provided by the curators of exhibition, which I've set out in smaller print ...  

This vase is an early ceramic work (1989), featuring women awkwardly engaged at a cocktail party.  Illustrated are Laura Ashley-style dresses, a Chanel suit, Madonna's bustier.  The vase offers a playful critique of high-class 1980s fashion, high society, and art world trends.  It also echoes themes found in Virginia Woolf's fourth novel, Mrs Dalloway, which highlights the tension between the polished public persona we present to the world and the private inner life that lies beneath.

Grayson Perry Trophy -
awarded to a person with good taste

The exhibits have made me think … and I'm more open to contemporary art … live and learn, I guess. Charleston's season of exhibitions at the Farmhouse will continue to explore the intersections between art and home … which I sadly will not get to …

This is the House of Essex built for the Living Architecture charity ... it does look really fun to look around - one day perhaps I'll get there.  

Grayson Perry - Wiki link ...

"House for Essex" wiki link ... 

Living Architecture link ... 

So - after all the above ... I hope you've been able to find your way round the information provided - I wasn't sure what to do ... as he's a complex, thought provoking character ... I was pleased I was able to visit the exhibition.

Here's another link to an exhibition in Edinburgh in 2023 - per Anabel's comment below ... it gives a little more explanation on Perry's career ... 

Hilary Melton-Butcher

Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

Floating Lady …

 

The art shuttle bus took Sue and I over to Lewes to the 'new' Charleston in Lewes … a building for exhibitions, community projects, artist-led workshops, gallery activities and educational programs tailored for local state schools, further education and higher education groups …

c/o Charleston in Lewes website

We went to see 'Grayson Perry: A Temple for Everyone' – which I'll post about next … as I need to get my head around explaining it!

It was fresh and chilly ... 

However … we had a lovely Spring day… on the way up in what to me was rather a 'Brutalist' building … the Floating Lady appeared … my photos don't do it justice against the bright (I know!) light of sunnier days … but the link below shows the sculpture off in all its floating glory.

My pic of her in the staircase foyer

Quentin Bell (1910 – 1996), nephew of Virginia Woolf, despite his talent as an artist, his career drew him to academia and book-writing … however he worked at various universities as a Lecturer in Art History – then ultimately as a Professor.

Charleston Farmhouse with pond

He often came down to Charleston Farmhouse, the Sussex home of the Bloomsbury group (writers, intellectuals, philosophers and artists in the early 20^th century) … when he wrote several of those books on the Group and the Farmhouse.

Bell as a child had been fascinated with optical illusions … as children they'd been taken in the early 1900s to see the Maskelyne's family stage show. Jasper Maskelyne (1902 – 1973) was a vain man, and though helping out with World War II deceptions, died an embittered drunk.

In situ - outside Leeds University

Bell was dumbfounded seeing the lady levitated – thinking it was impossible … but recalled watching the trick … with the lady eventually lying horizontal six feet from the floor.

So inspiration took hold and the completed fibreglass sculpture was placed over the Charleston Farmhouse pond … before being moved, after the War, to Leeds University, where Quentin Bell was a Professor of Fine Art.

Quentin Bell - late in life

I was fascinated to learn about Bell's interest in Maskelyne Cook's (House of Mystery) magic show … and then his crafting and creation of this sculpture … now back in rural Sussex ...

All grist to the mill … I will be back anon …

The Magician's Scapbook - Maskelyne and Cooke: House of Mysteries

Hilary Melton-Butcher

Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

The Edge of the World … a bookshop …

 

At the moment … I'd like to disappear off to this Penzance shop to quietly keep my head down away from the news … to be able to read lots of books – but life is here in sunny old Eastbourne – when the sun decides to show its face again …

I'm forever blowing bubbles appeared in my little grey cells – the lyrics don't really fit the time … but I could happily sit on the sands dreaming as the days pass … til the need to blow bubbles has passed.

The lighter days cometh … it is now warmer and of course damper – British weather.

I have numerous tomes, some shorter!, I hope to talk to you about some of them – all in due time of course … for now the winter darkness is still around … but these crocuses are reaching above ground to cheerfully greet us … and remind us time doth pass …

I'm off to an exhibition on Sunday using the Sussex Art Shuttle … a little bus that takes us from the Towner Gallery out to Charleston (Bloomsbury Group Sussex home) … meandering through the swathes of snowdrops, early daffodils and those crocuses …

Not to the bookshop (or the edge of the world) … but a bright informative exhibition in the Sussex landscape will satisfy … enjoy your times …

Hilary Melton-Butcher

Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

Crumbs Crumbling Chalk Cliffs

 

The tiny hamlet at Birling Gap has had many ups and downs in its short existence … eight cottages were built for the Coastguard in 1878 before passing into private ownership after WW2 …

Birling Gap hamlet pos 1930s

Birling Gap is iconically situated atop those crumbling chalk cliffs between Eastbourne and Brighton ...from where historically it has been possible to realise how much the chalk is a-crumbling into the English Channel below …

Using step ladder pos 1980s

I hadn't been out there for twelve years or so … and though it perhaps wasn't the most inspiring day for the driving friend … but suited the muffled overloaded new birthday girl, who had the winter blues and was wanting to recover her wits …

Demolishing cafe ... 2024

We pottered around – it was a grey day … but we checked out the National Trust shop, cafe, bookshop and 'museum' … last time I was there – the 'museum' was much more informative – showing chalked timelines along the walls and on the floor … that sadly had disappeared – showing how much erosion had been going on.

Coastal side of demolition in process (2024)

Sue is another African – English born, but brought up in Zimbabwe – so we're on the same wave-length – and had come with me to my brother's for Christmas … gave her a break – she was free to join us.

Looking west ... 2024

She remarked this is living history – as we peered from the scaffolding over the edge … we didn't go down the 'staircase' to the beach – though as you can see some have.

Showing the scaffolding stepway
(uncertain as to date)

We went off to a pub – only to find it closed for maintenance – fortunately nearby the Hiker's Rest was open … so to save energy driving around wondering where to go – not something I felt inspired to do: I was still not feeling up to much …

In recent years the buildings around
The Tiger Inn, inland a couple of miles, have
been done up and are now in use - as here: a cafe
for wilting elders! or as B&Bs etc

I know I had a spiced parsnip soup – which was warming and cheering, Sue had a baguette – the other half she ate for supper later on.

It was an ideal day out for a wilted elder! I do feel slightly better now – but still not out of the woods – I hope to be by mid February … another interesting dinner is in the offing – all grist to this girl's organising mill!

This shows the area with the scaffolding
steps, the cafe with its picnic seating,
a view from Beachy Head on the way 
down towards Birling Gap with its
few cottages still in use ... 

So this post tells the tale of Birling Gap and its eroding cliffs … via the odd images I've posted …

Thanks for visiting – while I've just been reminded about another post-WEP type post that's due on Thursday – the first of the month … so another coming up then …

Hilary Melton-Butcher

Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

Family Wedding guzzles, snippets … 2/2

 

The bride was ebullient, ecstatic, excited, exuberant, exhilarated and totally thrilled that 'the day to become Mr and Mrs' had finally arrived – sadly no photos … but it was an eye-opening day …

Buckets of flowers - simple, but
delightfully colourful

Fun speeches – with lots of amusing quips coming out … the groom being very determined to look after his near and dear … especially his new Missus – she wasn't going to be left out!

Their first dance showed the Missus' delight – they set off sedately … then I've never seen the new Missus move quite so quickly … as she whizzed back to her hubby's arms – with a few hugs grabbed for good measure!

MIL made the cake

I have to catch up on who did what – I only went over for the day – but everything was meticulously planned – except for that dreaded (cold) wind … and by the time I went home before 'carriages at midnight' were called ... I was very glad!

We had a local catering company 'The Green Fig' – who set up a catering tent, attached to the marquee …

Marquee set up ... 

My guzzle choices highlighted below ... and were listed on our individual Menu ... with a little bio for each of us ... 

Starters

• Trio of salmon (gluten free) - smoked salmon, flaked hot smoked salmon, salmon and chive mousse with homemade focaccia

• Seared carpaccio of beef fillet (gluten free, dairy free) - served with wasabi dressing

• Homemade vegetable pakoras (vegan, vegetarian, dairy free) - served with homemade spiced pineapple chutney

Main Courses

• Slow-roasted shoulder of lamb (gluten free, dairy free on request) - served on Boulangere potatoes with Mediterranean vegetables in a light tomato and rosemary jus

• Oven-baked cod with parmesan and chorizo crust - served with lemon butter sauce, served on crushed new potatoes with summer greens

• Charred hispi cabbage (vegetarian, vegan, gluten free, dairy free; contains nuts) - served with a herby polenta cake and hazelnut Romesco sauce

Desserts

• Summer berry pavlova (vegetarian, gluten free)

• Salted caramel pecan pie (vegetarian; contains nuts)

• Vegan baklava custard tart (vegetarian, vegan, dairy free)

 … all very good.

I'd been tempted by the Herby Polenta cake as my main, and the Salted Caramel Pecan pie … but settled for my first choices.

Heater strapped down - they'd blown
over during the night - weather was
clear though ... 

The 12 tables, with a top table, were all labelled with the names of the places they'd been to on holiday – I was on Athens … the others: Bologna, Cotswolds, Dubrovnik, Limassol, Naxos (Greek Island), New Forest, Penzance, Port Isaac, Rome, Valletta, Venice …

I have friends whose daughter is getting married this weekend – it looks as though that one will be damp … and chilly – I'm now glad ours was on St Swithin's Day.  It was a very wet overnighter?!

Hollyhocks

I caught up with a few friends … while at the Church, I'd arrived early, a Nigerian pal came early too – and we nattered … he was somewhat bemused when I mentioned the trilogy 'Binti' by the American Nigerian author – Nnedi Okorafor – a Sci-Fi tale based around the Himba tribe in Namibia: not a subject he'd expected to come across!

I'm now looking forward to catching up with all the ins and outs ... and latest news anon.  My brother and SIL have understandably disappeared for a break!  

Plum tree - full of fruits - it's an old
orchard area

Information from One Stop English - where I gather wicked derives from the Old English Word wicca - the female equivalent was wicce - giving us the word witch. 

The Menu card

Hilary (orig. Latin, 'Hilarius': 'cheerful', 'happy')

A generous and loving honorary godmother. Endlessly caring and always there.

A 1613 pamphlet "showing
Witches Apprehended, Examined,
Executed, for notable villanies ..."
I'm glad to live in the 21st C!

Normal service will be resumed here shortly ... no peace for this wicce over the summer - I just need to catch my tail if wicce have tails? ...

OneStopEnglish - Word of the Week ... 

The Green Fig Catering Company found outside Eastbourne ... 

PS - I forgot b-o-o-z-e ... plenty on hand - I enjoyed my Prosecco and water ... (not mixed!)

Hilary Melton-Butcher

Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

Wellie boots, St Swithin's Day, family wedding ... 1/2

 

Well – the weather was typically British – perhaps a little (to put it mildly) windy, and potentially very wet …

Part of The Tye - the wind blew the clouds away

It was St Swithin's Day … 15^th July …

Oh St Swithin if thou'll be fair,

For forty days shall rain nae mair,

But if St Swithin's thou be wet,

for forty days it raineth yet.

What to wear … soggy feet or clothes, are not my idea of fun … in the end the rain stayed away – but by golly gosh the wind did not!

In case you're mesmerised by the rug
 - there be clouds on those boots!

I took my Seasalt wellies – my favourite shop in Penzance, when I came back from South Africa (in the early 1980s) to visit my mother – with me – in case … so (including another set of shoes, and a waterproof) I was a bit of a bag lady! - but that wind blew the showers or rainstorm away …

Seasalt's Calendar for this year

Oh by the way – the wellies aren't that old! - they did go to Canada with me … well travelled like their owner – and not often worn! Seasalt has now spread its wings with shops around the United Kingdom.

Coaster showing Church

The Service was held in the Cathedral of the Downs – as St Andrew's Church, Alfriston is known – it was built in the 1370s in the form of a Greek Cross.

There were three weddings in the village that day – the family's first choice would have been Berwick where the Bloomsbury Group paintings have recently been restored – but already booked by another local family … then a Chapel wedding also on The Tye – as the green in the centre of the village is known – where St Andrew's resides.

View of the Downs pre WW2 - painted
by Eric Ravilious (1903 - 1942)

My taxi driver parked up – and started directing the traffic – managing to get my brother, who gave the bride away, and the bride nearer to the Church's entrance … it was pandemonium I gather! The bride recognised my lady driver, then my brother apparently did the thumbs up … she's rather well known now.

River Cuckmere meandering to the sea

The area is near the English Channel – where the Romans plied their trade, then came the Saxons … both 'tribes' ranged inland too – hence our very early animal trails tracked by the early Stone Age peoples, the Pilgrim paths, which begat coach roads … yet earlier Neolithic peoples populated the area. The River Cuckmere was navigable about four miles inland …

Coach Road by Eric Ravilious (1903 - 1942)

All were safely gathered in for the Reception, the rest of the day after the youngsters became Mr and Mrs … that will be part two …

Alfriston village c/o Wiki

Berwick Church – conserving the Bloomsbury Group murals and saving them ... 

The Old Chapel Centre and its history

Seasalt Cornwall – its story

Hilary Melton-Butcher

Positive Letters Inspirational Stories