I had already come across the ‘beetlewing costume’ via posts I had written about closing up
Kipling’s home – Batemans –
particularly the conservation of its contents.
 |
Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth -
painting by John Singer Sargent
(1888) |
I knew Ellen Terry’s name (1847 – 1928) … but really nothing
about her life or the magnificent glistening dress she wore when performing
Lady Macbeth.
So when hearing a talk on Ellen at our Social History group …
I was enchanted to learn more.
Terry came from an acting family … and began performing in her
childhood … she was one of 11 children … at least five became actors – Kate,
her elder sister, was the grandmother of Sir John Gielgud, who along with Sir
Laurence Olivier and Sir Ralph Richardson were the trinity of actors dominating
the British stage for much of the 20th century …
 |
'Choosing' - portrait of Ellen
Terry, by George Watts c. 1864 |
The Terry family gave performances around the country … with
Ellen taking parts from the early age of 9 … it seems she never stopped.
An eminent artist, George Watts, painted the two sister’s
portraits … and then despite the age difference (46 – 17) – Watts and Terry
married: it didn’t last, but the time allowed Terry to meet various luminaries
of the time: Browning, Tennyson, Gladstone and Disraeli … which opened new
doors and gained her more admirers.
 |
Julia Margaret Cameron's photo of
Ellen Terry, aged 16 |
While the portraits painted by Watts and the early photographs
by the renowned photographer, Julia Margaret Cameron, ensured she became a cult
figure for the poets and painters of the later Pre-Raphaelite and Aesthetic
movements, including Oscar Wilde.
Terry lived life to the full … beginning a relationship with a
progressive architect-designer, by whom she had two children, Edward William
Godwin (1833 – 1886). Godwin had a
particular interest in medieval costume … which led him to design theatrical
costumes and scenery for Terry and her performances, even after their affair
cooled.
 |
Northampton Guildhall - designed in the
Ruskinian-Gothic style by Godwin |
Terry had two further marriages, and other liaisons over her
long life … one where she married an American, James Carew, who was 30 years
her junior … that lasted only two years.
Two other partnerships developed – not of the romantic kind –
for a short while with George Bernard Shaw – they had struck up a friendship
and conducted a famous correspondence …. they weren’t so keen when they met!
 |
| Henry Irving (1838 - 1905) |
The other was with Henry Irving who had worked hard to become
a successful actor-manager-theatre director … particularly after his
association and subsequent partnership with Ellen.
She remained popular regardless of how much and how often her
behaviour defied the strict morality expected by her Victorian audiences … it
is unknown whether Terry had a romantic relationship with Irving – who was
considered the doyen of English
classical theatre, even, in 1895, being the first actor to be knighted.
Much of Ellen Terry’s life has been recorded in art and
photography … often wearing gowns designed by Godwin. The most spectacular, and one which was worn
and worn over the years – here and in America – is the Iridescent Beetle Wing
costume she wore as Lady Macbeth.
 |
| The costume in dire need of repair ... |
The gown was made in crochet using a soft green wool and blue
tinsel yarn from Bohemia to create an effect similar to chain mail.
 |
| Part of the portrait by John Singer Sargent |
John Singer Sargent on seeing Terry in her performance in 1888
was compelled to paint her portrait, hence we have a detailed image to refer
to. It is in the Tate Gallery – where it
had been donated in 1906; there is a contemporaneous photograph of Ellen Terry
wearing the dress in the National Portrait Gallery.
 |
| Beetle wings |
The costume was embroidered with gold and decorated with over
a thousand of those sparkly wings from the green jewel beetle. By the way the beetles shed their wings
naturally – thank goodness for that clarification!
 |
| The Bejewlled Beetle |
 |
Henry Irving watching a rehearsal -
illustration c. 1893 |
Irving died in 1905 leaving Terry distraught however she
returned to the theatre in 1906. She
continued to perform, appeared in her first film in 1916, travelled back and
forth to America, toured Australasia … while also lecturing on the Shakespearean
heroines.
She continued to participate in the theatrical world, though
after WW1 withdrew more and more … she was recognised by society and appointed
a Dame Grand Cross of the Order of the British Empire – only the second actress
to be so honoured.
 |
| Smallhythe Place |
Terry, in 1899, had bought Smallhythe Place, near Tenterden on
the Kent/Sussex border – which she first saw with Henry Irving. Terry’s daughter, Edith Craig, opened the
house in 1929 as a memorial to her mother.
 |
| A walk through the gardens at Smallhythe |
It is now owned by the National Trust who maintain the many
personal and theatrical mementos, the house, garden and the Barn Theatre in
the grounds … where the tradition of putting on a Shakespearean play every year
on the anniversary of Ellen Terry’s death (21 July) has been maintained.
 |
| The Barn Theatre |
That costume, transforming the beautiful red-haired actress
into a cross between a jewelled serpent and a medieval knight, was the talk of
the town in 1888 after the first night … and was, after one hundred years (with
all the wear and tear of tours, behind the scenes change of costumes, and
packing crates), desperately in need of a touch of conservation.
 |
| Ellen Terry c 1880 - aged 33 |
I so enjoyed learning about Ellen Terry, which led me to look
at theatre in the 1800s, actors and actresses, society, art and literary works,
epistolary collections, textile conservation … and then the history of it all,
ending with Smallhythe Place – which I have never visited … definitely
something I need to correct.
Hilary Melton-Butcher
Positive Letters Inspirational Stories
