Showing posts with label Cowichan Valley. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cowichan Valley. Show all posts

Tuesday, 12 February 2019

Robert Service … “Bard of the North” …


Just sometimes in life we come across quite extraordinary people … whose lives we learn about … Robert Service (1874 – 1958) is one of those … he spent a few years in Cowichan Bay, Vancouver Island in his early twenties … after leaving Scotland for new horizons …

 
c 1905 - aged 31

We learn that this imaginative, day-dreaming child was already composing rhythmical verses at the age of 6 … appropriately a delightful child-like grace:

God bless the cakes and bless the jam;
Bless the cheese and the cold boiled ham:
Bless the scones Aunt Jeannie makes,
And saves us all from bellyaches. Amen



Plain boiled ham - this though
looks rather good
Wonderful lives people lead … this six year old had been sent to live with his grandfather, a general store postmaster, and three maiden aunts in Kilwinning, Scotland – there were ten children, so perhaps understandably some got ‘farmed out’ …



Highland Dancer swirling kilt
in the 21st C


… his mother, on her husband’s return from England, came to visit to find her son happily dressed in a kilt with nothing underneath … she took him back to Glasgow!





He was forever reading books, particularly poetry … Burns, Shakespeare, Browning … on leaving school early he apprenticed with the Bank of Scotland … where due to inactivity he developed his craft of writing and “selling verses” …





Driving down towards Cowichan Bay
… as you can imagine he got bored, wanted to travel and at 21 in 1895, journeyed to Vancouver Island, where the family had relatives;  he dreamt of becoming a Buffalo Bill type cowboy having read or seen the Wild West performances in England and Europe.



Corfield Farm - c/o Cowichan Bay Museum Archives
He explored up and down the west coast … just subsisting … returning to the Island he took a job as a cowhand/store-keeper/ also tutor to the farmer’s sons … once again experiencing life to the full … garnering stories …



… it was an idyllic time … later he thought it was time wasted … but to earn a bit more in 1903 he returned to bank work in the capital Victoria … while continuing to write verses …


Railway crossing the North Thomson
River, Kamloops
… very soon the bank sent him to Kamloops (a new railway transportation hub on the mainland) … from there he was sent to Whitehorse, Yukon – a prospectors stop-over on the way to Dawson City to test their luck in the Gold Rush ...  


Still working for the bank, but in a frontier town where entertainment was always needed … Robert continued to write his verses or doggerel … entertaining the wide range of characters chasing their fortune in the frozen ranges.


Sailing north to the Yukon
He was able to amass a collection of ballads, which he sent, to his father, now living in Toronto, asking him to have them printed up into a booklet, which he was going to give to friends in Whitehorse.  He had covered the costs with a cheque …



The booklet true to its title was a self-starter … the foreman and printer recited the ballads while they worked; a salesman read the proofs and sold 1700 copies in advance orders … the publisher sent Robert’s cheque back and offered him a ten percent royalty contract for the book.



 Songs of a Sourdough’ (sourdough – as is the bread starter stored in distinctive pouches by the old miners; and/or as a term for an experienced miner) …


Paying with gold dust, Dawson City

Robert’s life was set – he found he fairly easily was able to draft his works … doggerel, ballads, novels, newspaper articles … making sure they would appeal to the ear and reflect to the eye … he had found his voice …


His cabin in Dawson City - it is still there,
but tourists can only walk round

Coarse rolls of lining paper were hung up … where he copied out his verses using charcoal … refining them, pacing and repeating … until the words flowed.



I could write lots more about this fascinating man – who started life as a boy with no knickers under his kilt, who could write verses without having visited Dawson City … he listened to the miners, parodied their tales …

Films were made,
verses quoted etc

He continued to live in the Yukon writing … but being able to travel went to see other parts of the world … WW1 commenced and he wanted to sign up – but due to varicose veins was rejected … he still wrote for newspapers … after the War he settled in Paris, married but moved to the USA west coast during WW2 …


They holidayed and lived in Brittany
 - which is where he is buried

They returned to France, with Robert living out his days as a wealthy gentleman, who at night transformed himself into a tramp, and together with his doorman, wandered the Parisian streets seeking inspiration …





A collection
That is Robert Service who loved the Yukon, honed his ‘voice’, wrote to entertain, whose words are forever embedded as wonderful ballads, doggerel stanzas, whimsical tales of the frozen north … the small child who could praise ‘cold boiled ham’ …






Hilary Melton-Butcher
Positive Letters Inspirational Stories


Monday, 3 December 2018

Up Up and Away … Goodbye to Canada …




I will have arrived back in little old England and will be back in my old home town of Eastbourne … by the time you read this …


Seven Sisters and Cuckmere cottages
... having left on Thursday 29th … overnight at Calgary, arrive back at Gatwick in the middle of the morning on Saturday 1st December … being collected – I’m glad to say with my luggage! – by my brother …




I think I have a flat to go to … need to sort that out and should be in by the middle of December … a few things are planned after that – and then I’ll be settling in to normality …

Eastbourne panorama looking east towards Hastings


Reefs seen from the float plane


… my friends, and those in the various organisations I belong to – haven’t forgotten me – and so I’ll be back going to talks etc … at least my brain won’t atrophy …




The bays - Cowichan Bay

Once I’m up and settled then I’ll be back to normal – though may just take my time til early January 2019 – oh how time flyeth …



Victoria from a float plane trip





 I will miss lots about living here – it’s been a pleasure and I look forward to coming back at some stage … views to die for, opportunities not to miss,  food and vino I've enjoyed ... 






When I was out the other day ...
My wine tour was conducted by Cheers Cowichan ... and is well worth doing - they pick you up ... from all over the show - eg Villa Eyrie ... a place I'd love to visit ... 




BlueGrouseEstate Winery … present owners have knowledge of Peruvian vineyard as they lived down there … 









Avocado and Crab salad at Cow Cafe


Zanatta – lunch here … Vinoteca restaurant ... see Monday's and Friday's posts ... 









Island Oysters 'Antoine' with pernod at Cow Cafe


Enrico Winery  ... another vineyard with a difference ... 


CherryPoint – very early vineyard, then taken over by First Nations, then bought back and now a vineyard again …




Trees, trees, old and new
One last story appropriate to this ever changing world …

I was in one of the local liquor stores ... and two, what (in England) I would call construction guys - but here ... probably loggers or similar ... I'm waiting to pay by the open door ... 

Cowichan estuary looking out from a hide


... there's a heavy smell - almost dung, tobacco, brewery extracts ... I remark on it ... the cashier looks at me and looks at them ... I'm oblivious and keeping a cheery face ... 



I never saw one of these ... but love the board
letting us know they are around - wildlife will be missed


... they are in the other queue (not to say there's a queue often in this part of Canada) buying their evening drink ... 



Cannabis



I wonder where the smell is coming from ... as do the others ... but it's a sort of 'difficult' situation - anyways I pays my way and offs I go ...






Cowichan harbour - floating homes
I go in again about a week later - and the cashier says - oh you remember those guys: yes, I say ... they came in earlier today too - and as they came through, they asked me if that English lady was here??!!






History - these plots were allocated
to the early settlers ... and I have
to tell you more about these maps -
they are on show in Cobble Hill

No - she says and they apparently all have another good laugh - which I will now join in with ... they'd been smoking cannabis ... gosh it reeks and hangs around ... 

We laugh away ... with more repartee ... and comments about these working lads - and my English accent ... then I say I'm going home and she says - oh no ... I'm so enjoying your company ... I'll miss your way with words and conversation ... 





The evening sun glistening through some
of the many trees


So for now – goodbye Canada … and yes for my blogging friends I will continue with my pioneering series, 



and other things I'd like to alert you to - an art gallery, a perfumier par excellence in my book, and lots of other subjects that I've never got round to ... so Canada will continue from the coast of little old England.


Hilary Melton-Butcher
Positive Letters Inspirational Stories

Wednesday, 21 November 2018

Cowichan Valley ... the settling and opening up: Railways, Roads, the local Ferry and the Ice ... part 5



Fog, Ice and Snow are very much a part of this area … we need transport to get around ... ships, trails, roads, rail and now air ...



Sorry - I've enlarged it ... so out of focus ...
... but you can see some of the ferry routes -
Mill Bay to Brentwood is bottom middle
(this is zone 1 map - see Wiki BC Ferries)
... the weather could be much more extreme … mostly it’s tolerable – occasionally it becomes severe, which can upset a few applecarts



Travel used to be by sloop, steamer, ox wagon, horse ride, or just two feet to get to and fro from the capital Victoria … 




Bringing struts across Kinsol Trestle for repairs
... the railway, that mixed blessing bastion, was built by Robert Dunsmuir – the coal baron – from Nanaimo to Esquimalt Harbour, Victoria in 1888 - before being sold after his death in 1905 … the service of which has been a hallmark of inconsistency … 



Repairs are needed ... but they're starting on the
northern section
It has just been announced, to be ratified next month, that repairs to the line will be made … and all things being equal the railway will re-open from Spring onwards … eventually reaching Victoria late next year.






Malahat - unmetalled road in 1917
But back to 1911 when the Malahat easterly crossing was built … the motor car arriving from Germany in 1899, or the USA in 1908 … ‘luxury transport’ was available for those who could afford it …



Main routes now from Victoria out to Cowichan Valley and
back; some ferry routes shown - but the Saanich
Peninsula is clearly shown.  The thickened blue line was the
old main route through along the coast - before the
Trans Canada Highway was built ...


Freighters supplied the coastal communities with grain, hay, fish, livestock … the SS Cascade was one of those - being built in 1906 – it plied its route for 13 years.








1928 SS Cascade coming into Brentwood Bay Dock


After WW1 it was sold and changed into a coal transporter travelling between Union Bay, Nanaimo and down to Seattle.  Occasionally also supplying





Very early steam ship

Two Royal Navy officers, after WW1, saw an opening for a ferry service, which began in 1924.   They adapted the SS Cascade … advertised the savings in mileage for intrepid road tourists …







The intention was to bring the railway to the Bute inlet -
it runs through Kamloops now, then south to Vancouver

The west coast of Canada, and Vancouver Islands – were new lands to explore and find out about … Victoria the capital was well known … but to promote the rest of the Island … potential investors, settlers, tourists … needed to see as much as they could …





Closer view of Bute inlet and the intricacies of the
British Columbian coastline adjacent to
Vancouver Island


… this place of beauty, the climate, ideal weather, wildlife to see, fishing, camping and hiking opportunities, let alone the tiny inlets and bays for the sailing fraternity …








The Sunken Garden

… new places too – Mr Butchart’s Garden, which I’ve yet to write up about, or the Observatory which has escaped my wanderings, the Saanich peninsula … 




... the airport, or any form of airfield, only arrived in 1939 … so the peninsula was another area to explore when motoring was becoming ubiquitous … using the ferry saved a second road journey over the Malahat … not tarmacked until 1940 …



The old advert shown today on the ferry
- dated 1930s
… thus taking the 3 mile ferry trip would save one of the Malahat trips – at times not pleasant even in this day and age (and the road has improved considerably!).


Most of the time all was well … but in 1926 … it was so cold there were mini ice floes around … the ferry continued to run – to get passengers over to the Valley … as the Malahat would have been impenetrable …





Tug boat pushing log raft off
Vancouver, 2012

The Bamberton tug pushed ahead of the ferry, which ploughed on through six inches of ice … but … a huge chunk must have struck the ship’s bow tearing a hole in her hull.






SS Cascade awaiting a refit 1933


Fortunately a man on watch discovered that water was coming up the ship’s well … the captain immediately turned back, safely disgorged his passengers and cars …





… but nothing could be done for the ferry – she sank alongside the wharf – was repaired and restored back into service …


Ferry Terminal in Victoria in the 1920s


… it’s a delightful journey … a maximum of 22 cars (no lorries) – depending on the size can be carried …   200 vehicles a day compared to the 25,000 vehicles that daily ply the Malahat in 2018.





Cowichan Bay November 2018 - which can be frozen over ...
salt water does not freeze so quickly ... there's a lot of fresh
water here - hence the salmon boats.

As was advertised back in the 1920s … two lovely scenic drives of the Island are linked together … so the same road need not be travelled twice in order to see Victoria and its hinterland – returning home in time for supper or dinner.






At times the weather defeats us all … Cowichan Bay can get frozen … with farm vehicles taking the ice across to Genoa Bay avoiding the road home …





Fog, snow and ice prevail to make life very difficult – that any alternative help is much appreciated … ie not taking the Malahat – which now has a ‘by-law’ recommending that winter tyres are used, and that vehicles should carry chains …








I’m not quite sure where this series is taking me – there will be one more … as I want to note a few things of interest that interact with this series and correct a few minor inconsistencies …




Cowichan Valley looking south


It’s not the easiest place to explain how it worked, might have worked, or did work … or how it all happened to be the wonderful place we know today …








So for now … what will winter this year hold in store for present day Islanders ... but I will continue to enjoy its seafood!



Hilary Melton-Butcher
Positive Letters Inspirational Stories